Is there any place more magical and appealing than Italy in the springtime? And after two years of a global pandemic that has left so many of us eager for travel to new and inspiring places, the draw of a European destination to me felt even stronger than usual.

My first foray back into international travel since 2020 was to the Italian cities of Venice and Florence with a group of museum curators and art enthusiasts. This was a dream trip for a lover of art history, and I was joined by my dear friend and photographer, Jane Beiles, who brought a photographer’s eye (and quick wit) to our jovial group.

We hit the ground running and, led by Italian experts, immersed ourselves in the most visually stimulating of places, including private palazzos, artist exhibitions, and ancient churches. As we moved back and forth between contemporary and historical works of art, the differences seemed less obvious, all part of one larger story.

Highlights were numerous and - while too many to mention here - include the following favorites.

The Anish Kapoor exhibit at Palazzo Manfrin in Venice was breathtaking and full of contradictions - the large mass of red and black silicone hanging from the ceiling at the entrance set an ominous tone, while the carved alabaster sculptures further on invited calm reflection. The centuries-old setting contrasted beautifully with the strong contemporary art - allowing both art and architecture to shine. In a similar duality, the German artist Anselm Kiefer created a site-specific installation for the Sala dello Scrutinio in the Palazzo Ducale with his usual mix of materials. Covering up the historic artworks already hanging, this installation will tragically be destroyed when the exhibition ends.

We also visited the Venice Art Biennale, a spectacle that has taken place since 1895. The grounds contain country pavilions - permanent structures used by nations to showcase an artist(s) chosen to represent them. Simone Leigh is the first black female sculptor to represent the US at the Biennale and one of the exhibition’s winning artists. The beauty of her large scale, mainly colorless sculptures inspired long queues outside the pavilion of visitors eager to view her monuments to race and gender.

Simone Leigh

Expulsion from The Garden of Eden

In addition to more current works of art, we explored historical icons all over Venice and Florence. A favorite visit was to the Galleria dell’Accademia, home to the largest collection of Venetian art worldwide. Here I was introduced to the works of Giovanni Bellini, a master Venetian Renaissance artist, by a professor who has long studied his work. To share in his enthusiasm was a treat - il profesore became so excited discussing Bellini he was shushed by an older gentleman visitor!

Another fascinating aspect to our trip was observing the restoration work of many artworks. In the side room of a small church in Venice casually sat Vittore Carpaccio’s St George and the Dragon on an easel, close enough for us to see the detail of the work being done. Later in Florence, we climbed the scaffolding in the Brancacci Chapel to witness the famous masterpiece The Life of St Peter by Masolino and his pupil, Masaccio, for a rare opportunity to view the frescoes at eye-level. The scenes by the younger man are considered to be the vanguard of Renaissance painting, later studied by Leonardo da Vinci and Michaelangelo.

Obviously, there was an academic pursuit to what we saw. But I also looked for connections between what I was observing, and my day-to-day mission - introducing clients to the joy of living with art. And there was much to inspire me.

We visited several private homes and palazzos with incredible collections of art. But these were nothing like museums. They are spaces that are lived in and used. Across the centuries, these homes have been warm and welcoming. Why? Because the furnishings and art were layered - yes, glorious paintings on the walls, but also sculpture, tapestries, and Murano glass chandeliers. The subject matter of the paintings may be different today, but the principal goal is the same. As an advisor, I not only suggest artworks that work in the context of what clients own and love but also encourage them to consider different media and styles, believing that it is the blend of art and furnishings that creates an inviting home that reflects you and only you.

One final thought - what makes an artwork compelling enough to be studied and restored centuries after being created? About the art selected for a global exhibition like the Biennale? Very simply, these works are by artists trying to do something different. In the historical context, Masaccio may have changed the course of art history by painting unprecedented emotional realism. In the contemporary, Leigh may be introducing dialogue that is only recently beginning to take place on such a large stage. The unexpected is what my colleagues and I continually search for - what artist today is doing something different and interesting? We look for it because we know it is the uniqueness of an artwork that is a significant driver of value and long-term enjoyment.

Such is life in 2022 that this trip came to a screeching halt for me when I became sick with Covid, but the mission continues. And as my friend Jane reminded me, “you can’t see everything during one visit - you need something to come back to.”

Italy during the Venice Biennale

Art Advisor: Day In The Life